Getting Started- Speed Events- Part 3
What your car needs
Timing Strut: For speed events, timing is performed
by a light beam system. To standardise how cars cut the beam, the Blue
Book lays down rules for a timing strut to be fitted to each car. This
is basically just a rectangular bit of metal (or card) that affixes temporarily
to the front of the car. You can work out all sorts of complicated methods
to secure it, but often double sided tape is sufficient. I'm able to use
one of the screws that hold my number plate.
The specific requirements for the strut state that it must be "matt black over its total area (254mm x 51mm). The bottom of the strut shall be not more than 200mm from the ground and the top not less than 454mm from the ground." (MSA Rule L 10.12.1).
Fire extinguisher: This is listed as optional in the Blue Book (Rule L 10.11.3). You need at least a 1.5kg fire extinguisher firmly secured to the car. These cost around £45 and you may have to get a 1.75kg model. It is easy to screw this to the floor somewhere in the passenger compartment and it can be left in for normal road use.
Race numbers: Just before each event you enter, you will be sent details of your entry number. This number must be displayed on your car. The MSA rules stipulate a black number on a white background, but for the purposes of speed events, contrasting numbers (say white numbers on a red car) are fine. You can either make numbers up with masking tape (curved numbers are tricky), buy pre-cut numbers, or make up sets from magnetic plastic. WMC have numbers for members at their events.
Scrutineering
These are a few things that scrutineers may look for:
Yellow tape around the battery ground lead, supposedly
so that it can be cut quickly in an emergency by marshals.
Ignition off switch marked. This is really a rule for
the specialist cars which start and stop engines by elusive buttons on
the dashboard. A sticker somewhere near your key on the steering column
with an arrow pointing in the "off" direction should be sufficient.
As none of these things are hard to fix on site, it is sometimes best to just listen to what the particular scrutineer wants, and then comply. If you don't have the right sort of tape or tool, there is a very good chance that someone in the paddock will help you out! If you are planning to compete with a road car you will usually be eligible for an unmodified class. Each particular class has various restrictions on what you can and can't do to the car in the way of modifications.
Car Wear and Tear
Tyres - If you are running on road legal tyres they should be fine for events. The Blue Book has a list of permitted tyres but you are unlikely to have anything so exotic on your car that you can't use them at an event. There seems to be a lot of black magic associated with tyres. Sprint paddocks are full of people checking pressures, pumping up and letting down. You should have an accurate tyre pressure gauge (about £45 with range 0-40 lbs.) and a pump. I originally had an electric pump (I know very lazy) but they're actually a bit of a pain and a good foot pump is both cheaper and quicker.
It is not necessary to change your tyres to compete. If you are coming up to needing a new set of tyres, however, it might be worth asking around to see what others recommend for your car. You might be able to get a tyre with more grip (but a shorter life) than you would normally fit.
Other Mechanicals - Obviously the clutch and transmission are going to take a bit more pounding than in usual driving but you should remember that each event usually consists of up to 5 runs each lasting around 100 seconds or less. How many times last week did you give it a bit of stick away from the lights?